Classic Bolognese Sauce – great ragu or meat sauce, with some tomatoes (not tomato sauce with meat as is the common misconception).
Easy to make and great to enjoy; leftovers (if you have any) taste just as good, and if you are making a big pot, it freezes well.
It takes a few hours but most of that is simmering time. The prep work is minimal and takes about 20 minutes.
What you need:
Ground meat about 1.5 lb or roughly half a kilo will make a good sized batch – I use primarily beef but you can mix beef and pork
1 medium onion chopped
1 or 2 carrots chopped
1 or 2 stalks of celery chopped
A few garlic cloves chopped
A few cups of beef or vegetable stock
A few cups of crushed or finely chopped tomatoes – I use my home canned tomatoes that have been mashed but have skins on.
About 1 cup of milk
Olive oil
Seasonings – Sea salt and black pepper and I also add some dried crushed oregano and basil I dried from my herb garden. You can use fresh herbs, just add them before the sauce is finished.
Pasta of your choice – preferably fresh (If I am able to I will pick up fresh pasta from De Luca’s as well as the meat http://www.deluca.ca )
I use a couple pans – one to brown the meat and one to sauté the onions and garlic and carrots/celery.
Saute the onion and garlic in some olive oilBrown the meat
If the meat is not lean I will drain off some of the fat.
Add the carrots and celery to the onion and garlicAdd the vegetables to the meatAdd the stock and tomatoes
Simmering
I like to simmer the sauce for 1.5 to 2 hours. Check it every now and then give it a stir. About 30 minutes before you are ready to serve, add the milk and bring to a boil, then back down to simmer. You can taste the sauce for seasonings and add as desired.
Boil the salted water for the pasta and cook (4 – 5 minutes for fresh and up to 12 minutes for dried).
Serve up with some fresh parmesan and ground pepper, fresh basil if desired and garlic toast or toasted bread with olive oil.
Spaghetti and Bolognese SauceClassic Bolognese Sauce with Pasta
Segovia is located a little north of Madrid in the area of Castile and Leon. I was able to spend a few days in Segovia following my time in Santiago de Compostela. It was about a 5 hour train ride from Santiago to Segovia and the route is very scenic passing through the countryside.
Parts of Segovia were designated a UNESCO World Heritage City https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segovia in 1985 and are worth a visit. I was staying at a beautiful property in the old city which was a complex of buildings of a former convent. The Eurostars Convento Capuchinos was a few minutes from the Plaza Mayor and Cathedral, Alcazar and the old city walls. The views I was greeted to from my very spacious room were stunning. http://www.eurostarsconventocapuchinos.com/EN/hotel.html
Old City Wall near the hotelOld City WallView from my roomFront of the hotel in the eveningView from my roomView from the old city wall near the hotel
One day I wandered into one of the shops mid way between the Cathedral and the Alcazar to browse upon some locally made jewellery. I ended up having a very nice conversation with the shopkeeper who recommended some walking trails that were more scenic and used by the locals as well as a nice little restaurant called San Marcos in the valley below the Alcazar that was very popular with the local Segovians. http://www.sanmarcosrestaurante.com
San Marcos PrawnsView from the Alcazar looking to the valley where San Marco restaurant isBridge crossing the river below the Alcazar and on the way to San Marco restaurant
I easily found the walking trails on the outside of the old city walls going through the valley. The view from the bottom of the valley looking up at the walls and the Alcazar are just as amazing if not more so, than from above.
View to the Alcazar from the valleyWalking path in the valley below the wallsWalking pathOn the walking path below the old city wallsWalking beside one of the streets by the old city wall
Following the path along the river and crossing a few bridges I came upon the University and then continued onwards to the Roman Aqueducts. Massive structures perfectly preserved in the middle of the city; fabulous!
Path coming up to the UniversityPart of the University buildingsRoman AqueductsRoman AqueductsRoman AqueductsRoman Aqueducts
The Plaza Mayor was about 5 minutes walk through the narrow winding streets from the hotel. By luck I went early to the plaza on a Thursday morning and found the local market buzzing with activity. Apparently it is only held on Thursday’s and it is where Segovians go to get their local produce. I found some fresh fruit to snack on as well as a few pastries (of course 🙂 ) The vendor selling olives had the longest line up and as I approached I could see why – the selection of fresh olives was amazing.
Line up for olivesOlives at the market in Plaza Mayor
It has 22 side chapels enclosing a massive cloister. I must say every Cathedral I saw in northern Spain seemed to outdo the previous one which is hard to believe.
Segovia Cathedral side chapelSide chapelSide chapelSegovia CathedralSegovia CathedralPipe organ in the Segovia CathedralSegovia CathedralSegovia CathedralOrnate ceiling workInside the CathedralSide chapelOrnate ceiling detailPillarOrnate ceiling detailPipe organ in the backgroundView toward the chamber where the pipe organ is in the centre of the CathedralSegovia CathedralSide chapelSide chapelSide chapelSegovia CathedralSide chapelSegovia CathedralSegovia CathedralCloistersWalking around the cloistersSide of the CathedralSide of the Cathedral
The structure has held various purposes throughout history as is visible from the decor inside the castle. There is ornate detailing of the walls and doorways and stained glass throughout. I also opted to do the extra tour walking up to the top of the tower. On a beautiful sunny day the view was breathtaking at 360 degrees.
View from the tower looking towards the CathedralView from the tower to the valley and San Marco restaurantAlcazarTower of the AlcazarAlcazarStained glassOrnate ceilingDetail inside the AlcazarDetail inside the AlcazarOrnate ceilingDetail inside the AlcazarView from the TowerWalking up the spiral stairway to the towerInside the armouryInside the armoury of the AlcazarLooking down towards the gardens of the AlcazarOn the towerWindow going up the spiral stairway to the towerArmoury of the Alcazar
The area near the Roman Aqueducts I found to be the busiest with tourists and people as well as traffic which can drive beside the ruins to get to other areas of the city (my taxi had to drive this street to get to my hotel which was in the old city close to the Plaza mayor). I enjoyed the Plaza Mayor more as it was not as busy, and moreso when walking on the quiet side streets away from the Plaza centre. A few minutes from the streets you can find quite walkways with benches to sit and rest and ponder your next adventure.
At one end of a bridge near the river valleyKitty of SegoviaWalking pathThe Cat stands guard
Following a few days in Oviedo I then travelled to Santiago de Compostela https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_de_Compostela further west in the northern part of Galicia, Spain. This is a city commonly associated with the Camino de Santiago or The Way of Saint James https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_de_Santiago People will travel for weeks or months from hundreds or thousands of kilometres by foot or bike or organized tour, to the final destination of the Cathedral of Santiago, where it is rumoured the bones of the apostle Saint James are buried.
I was not travelling on a pilgrimage and had only decided whilst in Barcelona that I would visit Santiago. I was staying at a property that was an old convent and had been completely renovated. The property is currently a Marriott Autograph Collection hotel http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/scqak-ac-palacio-del-carmen-autograph-collection/ I am a member of the Marriott hotels group (I think I have a membership in most of the major hotel chains due to a lot of travelling and most are easy and free to join) and upon arrival I was upgraded to a suite. Very nice with two windows opening with a view towards the Cathedral.
View from the hotelSuite at the AC Palacio del CarmenSuite at the AC Palacio del CarmenSuite at the AC Palacio del CarmenSuite at the AC Palacio del Carmen
I always get a map from the hotel with a quick explanation of where we are and what is nearby. Then my little map gets folded and refolded about a hundred times, but I always bring it with me. In Santiago it came in handy because I actually did wander off on the wrong street when going back to my hotel one day and ended up in a very weird little park with bizarre creepy trees like I was in Lord of The Rings somewhere. Granted – most of the places I stay in these old cities are in the central area and it is usually not that large of an area to wander around and there is a major landmark like a Cathedral you can see from most points, but if it is getting dark it is not as easy…so just bring the map.
I made it to the old city area and main plaza – Praza do Obradoiro. This plaza is square and is surrounded by the Pazo de Raxoi, now the city hall; the Pazo de Raxoi (Raxoi’s Palace), the town hall, and on the right from the cathedral steps is a hostel called the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, founded in 1492 by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella of Castille and Ferdinand II of Aragon, as a pilgrims’ hospice. There were people sitting everywhere in the plaza, with backpacks, walking sticks, in groups, alone, taking photos in front of the Cathedral and beside the monument in the ground dedicated to the travellers.
The side of the Police offices walking towards the plazaThe monument to the pilgrims in the plaza centrePolice Office near the Cathedral PlazaBeside the police officeThe Plaza area by the hostelThe PlazaThe front of the CathedralThe front main entrance of the Cathedral currently undergoing restoration workThe PlazaWalkway of the city hall, opposite the CathedralEntrance of the hostel in the Plaza beside the CathedralCity Hall in the Plaza opposite the CathedralChain links of the wall beside the hostel in the PlazaChain links of the wall beside the hostel in the PlazaNear the hostel in the Plaza
Tower at the back of the CathedralPlaza near the side entrance of the CathedralThe side entrance of the Cathedral currently being usedThe row of backpacks along the wallBeside the side entrance of the CathedralBeside the side entrance of the CathedralOpposite the side entrance of the Cathedral
I walked around the the plaza to the entrance. A row of backpacks lined the wall. There is a security guard at the door advising no backpacks or large bags are allowed and if you have a daypack or large purse they will look inside. The Cathedral is open to the public most of the day but if you enter when there is a mass, there will be certain parts roped off. The first time I visited was during a service so was not able to walk down the main aisle looking towards the main altar (I went again later in the day and saw it – wow it is a massive altar blazing with gold everywhere!) I was able to walk around the other areas and view the side chapels and walk up to the statue of Saint James behind the altar, and “Embrace the Apostle” for a few seconds while the mass was going on (I bet there were about 10 priests in the service it was massive). Following this I was able to descend into the crypt where the saint’s relics are kept in a silver casket. All in all a very interesting experience.
Looking towards the main altar inside the Cathedral de SantiagoLooking towards the main altar inside the Cathedral de SantiagoInside the Cathedral de SantiagoInside the Cathedral de SantiagoMason marks on columns inside the Cathedral de SantiagoPipe organ inside the Cathedral de SantiagoInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaThe crypt where Saint James bones are buriedInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela looking towards the side of the main altarInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de CompostelaInside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela looking towards the side of the main altarInside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
I spent most of the day wandering around the old city complex. It was again a beautiful day of sunshine and mid 20 degrees and although there were quite a few people it was definitely not the high tourist season which made walking around a pleasant experience rather than a struggle to get through the small streets and sidewalks.
Street nearing the Cathedral and Old CityOne of the monasteries in the Old CityWalking in the Old City beside one of the MonasteriesIn the Old CityIn the Old CityCovers, including the Bomberos “Fire Department”Santiago manhole coverCool bar sign in the old cityStreet in the old cityManhole cover of GaliciaManhole coverPart of the old city complex; one of the monasteriesMonument to pope John Paull IIOne of the streets with a very old decrepit property among some very nice apartments
I passed a boutique pet shop on my route and there was a large photo of an elegant cat pictured like Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s; I thought of my uber Diva Madama Miloe who could pose for the shot in her Tiffany blue Swarovski collar 🙂
Pet BoutiqueThe Diva
One trip wandering back to my hotel I was sure the little street I turned onto was the correct one but as I kept going it did not seem right. I entered into a little park, nobody was in it anywhere and there were huge knarled trees, twisted and wrenched like they were in pain. It was a very weird park….so I figured I would get a few photos and then take out my trusty map and find the errors of my ‘ways.’ Which I did and was soon on the right path.
The creepy tree parkCreepy Tree ParkThe creepy tree park
I liked this city and to those planning a trip to northern Spain I recommend a stop of at least 1-2 days to tour the old city area.
One of the highlights of Santiago de Compostela was taking a private cooking class. I did something similar with my friend whilst in southern Spain a few years ago in Granada and it was a great experience. The course in Granada was actually over 2 days and we did not make a trip to the market before each class (everything was already at the studio) but it was still great to cook some local dishes with a local chef.
Finding a course to take on this trip to northern Spain proved a little challenging as I was not with a group and most places wanted a minimum of two people in order to book a class. I was very fortunate to find The Spanish Touch http://www.thespanishtouch.com who were more than willing to accommodate my request. I want to thank Elna at The Spanish Touch who was very helpful providing information and answering all my questions as I think I changed my plans and dates a few times! I was put in touch with a local company in Santiago de Compostela called Hello Cooking http://www.hellocooking.es and it was absolutely fantastic I had so much fun and thoroughly enjoyed every moment! Maria and Elvira are wonderful and I would recommend to anyone wanting to take a day course to do some local Galician cooking to contact Maria – you will love the experience.
Maria met me at my hotel and we walked to the old town market close to the cathedral. This is the place where the local people shop for their daily fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and seafood, nuts, seeds and dried foods as well as flowers and various hand made crafts.
The MarketFresh fish at the marketFresh shellfish at the marketFresh produce at the marketThe MarketVariety of cheese at the market
Maria and I picked up the fresh hake fish we needed as well as some zamburinas on the half shell. Unfortunately the large scallops Maria was hoping to get were not available at any of the vendors but the zamburinas looked like they would be just as tasty!
The cooking studio was only a few minutes from the market and Elvira was already inside. A wonderful lady with many years experience as a professional chef, I was looking forward to cooking with both Elvira and Maria.
Our menu included making an appetizer of the zamburinas cooked the Galician way, on the half shell with a tomato-serrano ham sauce topped with a little fresh bread crumbs and baked until crispy and bubbly. Oh they were SO good!!
Zamburinas before going into the ovenOur menu in process of preparation
The main course was the hake fish dish with a white wine tomato sauce, topped with some white asparagus and parsley. A very nice combination of flavours, so easy to make and so tasty!
The hake cooking in the sauce (with the cakes on the counter)The hake with some lovely crispy potato slices fried in olive oil
My wonderful hosts Maria and ElviraQue aproveche!!Time for dessert!
Dessert was a traditional Santiago cake made with almond flour. The almond flour provides more flavour than conventional wheat flour and the cake is much more moist as well. I was able to bring a couple small cakes away with me and they provided me with a nice treat along with cafe con leche on my train trip to Segovia the following day.
Muchas gracias Elna, Maria and Elvira and Que aproveche!
Oviedo is a city of about 225,000 people in the province of Asturias in northern Spain. Oviedo was settled around the 8th century and soon after a rich architectural tradition began with the construction of palaces, churches, cathedrals, monastery’s and the like.
I flew from Biarritz, France to the Asturias airport (via Madrid) about 50km from Oviedo. I found the taxi to be a bit pricey at about 60 Euro but did not have many options. Weather was sunny and warm about +23c, the drive was scenic with rolling hills, valleys, lots of lush green vegetation, dotted with towns along the route.
I stayed at a small, stylish boutique hotel The Princesa Munia in the heart of the city which was an ideal location. The room was small but I was in an old building and in the city centre so I was not expecting a huge spacious room. The hotel is literally a few minutes walk from the Oviedo Cathedral which is known as the Cathedral of San Salvador, and plaza area which contains numerous heritage buildings, monastery’s, convents, churches, along with small cafe’s, tapas bars and sidrerias (the place to drink cider…I will get to this later) and of course lots of shopping.
Casa Conde in Plaza de la EscandaleraHorse sculptures in Plaza de la EscandaleraLa Maternidad by Botero in Plaza de la EscandaleraSculpture of the Traveller in Plaza Porlier de Oviedo
I have seen a lot of Cathedrals in many countries and although they are all impressive considering their construction, the Oviedo Cathedral ranks high on my list for classic gothic architecture in addition there also remain earlier romanesque relics in various locations of the structure. The building is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Probably the most famous relic held inside the Cathedral is the Sudarium of Oviedo. “Sudarium” is a shroud and this particular piece is supposed to be the shroud that wiped Jesus after the crucifixion; there are no images on the cloth but stains are visible that have been analyzed to be blood https://www.shroud.com/guscin.htm
Cathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San Salvador, altarCathedral of San Salvador, altarCathedral of San Salvador, Pipe organ
The Sudarium of Oviedo (shroud used to wipe Jesus after the crucifixion)The Sudarium of Oviedo (shroud used to wipe Jesus after the crucifixion)Cathedral of San SalvadorLooking to the cloister, Cathedral of San SalvadorLooking out one of the windows of the Cathedral San SalvadorLooking to the cloister, Cathedral of San SalvadorLooking to the cloister, Cathedral of San SalvadorLooking to the cloister, Cathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San SalvadorCathedral of San Salvador
Festival with musicians playing traditional music of Asturia
As I walked around the cluster of buildings near the cathedral I saw a number of weddings both in the afternoon and the evening. Two ceremonies I passed were going on inside the old cathedrals in one of the side chapels so although the doors were closed, there was still enough of an opening to peek through and see what was going on. Others I passed as the wedding party was coming out of the churches walking down the stairs or into a plaza filled with tourists and members of the wedding party (I guess I could have been a wedding crasher but decided against it).
One of the weddings held in the Cathedral
I had read a number of things online about the Cathedral and cluster of buildings and came across a number of comments about the Monastery of San Pelayo http://catedraldeoviedo.com/ which is a cloistered convent for the Order of Benedictine nuns. Apparently these nuns have made CD’s of gregorian chants and have amazing voices. They have vespers (evening prayer) each night which is open to the public and they sing vespers. So I decided to check it out. As Oviedo is along the camino trail enrolee to Santiago de Compostela I expected a horde of pilgrims but there were only about 10 of us and no-one looked like a hiking pilgrim. We sat in the front chapel and a few minutes before 7pm a sister came into the chapel and asked us to come to the back area behind the chapel where there were two levels of wooden seats lining each side of the room, and the sisters sitting towards the back on each side, and whom I assume was Mother Superior and another senior nun, sitting at the back facing the whole room. We sat on each side towards the front. It reminded me a little of an old British courtroom, not sure how else to describe it. I could not take any photos inside.
Monastery of San PelayoMonastery of San Pelayo
They began to sing and I must say it was pretty amazing. I am guessing, but I would say the average age of the 20 or so nuns was about 60 years old but the sound of their voices had me guessing again.
It lasted about 30 minutes then I went on my way, passing another wedding group just coming out of a church, musicians playing outside in the plaza, a few tourists wandering around and the locals starting to come out for coffee and maybe think about eating dinner which is usually not until 9pm or later. The Rialto pastry shop was open http://www.confiteriarialto.com/en and very busy and I could not resist getting something sweet. I think it was a Carbayone and it was worth it. It was worth it just to gaze at the window display which was full of pastries and sugary things made into ants of various pastel colours carrying pastries – very unique.
Display at the Rialto pastry shop – look closely they are sugary ants carrying sweet delights climbing up vinesDisplay at the Rialto pastry shop – look closely they are sugary ants carrying sweet delights climbing up vines
Street close to my hotel – check out this little wee tiny delivery van parked beside the scooter!!
As I continued my evening stroll I came upon a sidreria which is a cider bar. Yes, from the convent straight to the bar!
Asturian cider and especially in Oviedo, is well known for these establishments and the manner in which they pour it. When one goes into a sidreria one does not order a cider and sit and sip it. Oh no. There is a whole ritual involved.
The SidreriaThe Sidra
I ventured inside. Still early so there were not too many people. Ordered a cider…..a bottle with about a liter of cider is placed in front of me. Oh no, I say….poco poco I was only planning on a little bit. Nope. So he pours me a glass – you get maybe a few hundred ml per pour and you have to drink it all. Immediately. I guess it’s part of the aeration involved in the pour. No problem, I’m a small town girl I can down it in one drink. Nice and cold, tasty and only a few percent alcohol so I would be able to make it back to my hotel! But the best part of the whole cider experience is the pour. They lift the bottle in one hand and stretch their arm high above their head, and in the other hand is the glass, held with the arm stretched below their waist. And they pour…into the glass….from about 4 feet (depending how tall your bartender is 🙂 ). It’s great just to watch them!
The next morning was back to the airport and then onwards to Santiago de Compostela as I continued my journey westward in the north.
After Barcelona I travelled to south-west France to the city of Pau, nestled in the Pyrenees mountains. The train from Barcelona went to Narbonne where I had to change trains to travel to Toulouse and then another train to Pau.
Travelling by train through Europe is generally easy and straightforward and I have done it in a number of times in various places. I found it quite odd though when I researched going from Spain to France and the process of trying to get tickets. Whilst still in Barcelona I checked routes online and registered to buy tickets with one of the online agencies but every time I got to the point of actually entering my Visa to buy the tickets there was always an error. I even called my Visa company to check with them if my card had been cancelled which sometimes happens when travelling i.e. the company thinks the card may have been stolen with purchases popping up in different countries. I usually do not have problems because I travel in many countries for work; regardless, my Visa had not been cancelled and there were no holds or issues. The next day after finishing my Spanish class I arrived at Sants station and decided to ask the Renfe http://www.renfe.com agent for help. I had found some schedule times and even train numbers from my online searching which made it a little easier, however buying the ticket from Toulouse to Pau was only possible in France. Yes, I could not pre-book to insure I had a seat but had to take a chance there would be room on the train to get me to Pau. I was going to visit a friend I had not seen in about 10 years since visiting in Paris, and she was making plans to get to the station to meet me etc. and I really did not want to have to text from Toulouse and say “Sorry, I cannot get a ticket to Pau!!” Quelle domage…but what choice did I have? European Union? Oui, c’est vrai.
When the day arrived I made my way to Narbonne on a full train but very comfortable and lovely scenery along the way. In Narbonne I tried to remember my rusty old French and proceeded to buy a ticket from Toulouse to Pau. Yaay!!! It was general seating so I did not actually have a seat but I could get on the train which was all I needed. I was also told the train was usually not very busy anyway and it was never a problem going from Toulouse to Pau. Ok, great.
Check out This outfit….at the train station in Narbonne France
I arrived in Toulouse where I had a few hours to wait before the next train. Train stations are always interesting places to people watch. The weather was about 23C so I was able to sit outside and watch people coming and going, along with armed guards walking back and forth through the station inside and out.
At the train station in Toulouse FranceAcross from the train station in Toulouse FranceAt the train station in Toulouse France
About 20 minutes before the train departs the platform is announced and indicated on the board. I went inside to watch for the number to pop up beside my train. There were a lot of people waiting, but there are also a lot of trains so I never thought much of it. The platform number popped up and everyone started moving to the stairs to get to their train. I was one of the first people onboard and got a seat; still remembering what the agent had told me “There is never a problem getting a ticket because the train is never full.” Famous last words. People kept coming onto the train and soon every seat in the car was filled and as more people kept entering it was standing room only. A girl seated across from me asked in French if this train was always full like this. I understood in French but answered mostly in English (not sure what I would have said in my poor French!) “Oh you speak English” she said, so she then spoke in English. She was from France but currently living in San Francisco and had no idea this train was so busy. She spoke to a few other people and apparently there was construction on the tracks beginning the next day thus this train travelling from Toulouse onwards to Lourdes, Pau and then further, was the last train on this line for a number of days or even weeks depending on the progress of the repairs. There are a number of stops along the way and at each place the number of people getting on the train vs the number of people exiting the train was far greater. People were packed in the aisles standing room only. It was night time by now and no more beautiful French countryside to watch out the window. I did however get to see the packs/flocks/herds?? of Pink Flamingo’s earlier in the day which was quite unique.
About halfway into the trip one passenger and her companion were very unhappy about something and proceeded to get up from their seat to turn around and face the other passengers and begin yelling about various things related to France and immigration and work etc. Oh my. Not something I wanted to get involved in! After a few minutes of this they turned around, sat down and were quiet for the rest of the trip.
After 8:00pm I finally arrived in Pau and my friend and her son were there waiting and it was great to see them after so many years. We drove from Pau up to another town called Morlaas where they lived. It was lovely even from what I could see by the streetlights.
I was only planing on spending a couple days visiting but as it turned out we were having such a great time I extended my stay to 5 days after which I would return to northern Spain.
Near the Cathedral in PauView to the Pyrenees from the BoulevardStreet in Pau close to the CathedralCathedral in PauCathedral in PauGardens in Pau near the Boulevard
Pau is known for a few things such as being the capital of the ancient French region of Béarn (yes – Béarnaise sauce). Five centuries ago it was elevated to become the joint capital of the kingdom of Navarre, which stretched across the Pyrenees into Spain and the other capital, Pamplona. In the 16th century one of Pau’s famous citizens became Henry IV of France, named “The Good King” and also rumoured to be quite friendly with the ladies (actually not rumoured, it’s a fact he was a player with something like 70 or more mistresses!) http://southweststory.com/the-story-of-king-henri-iv
Castle of Henry IVStreet in Pau near the castle of Henry IVStreet below the castle of Henry IV
On a street below the castle of Henry IV
Lunch at Le Berry http://leberry-pau.com if ever in Pau, eat here. Highly recommended but make sure to get there for lunch by about 11:45 as it fills up very fast and they do not take reservations.
A necessary stop for afternoon cafe and a variety of petit-fours
We walked around Morlaas every day, through the tiny streets weaving around parks and shops and a very old Catholic church in the centre of the town.
Lovely street in MorlaasAt my friends’ in MorlaasMy friends bunny Leo!!The Catholic church in Morlaas about 1000 years oldInside the church in MorlaasInside the church in MorlaasInside the church in Morlaas
Inside the church in MorlaasOutside at the back of the church in MorlaasStained glass windows in the church in Morlaas
A bread vending machine near a grocery store in Morlaas…must be for emergency baguettes??
The day before I left we made a day trip out to the area of Montrejeau to tour caves with ancient hand paintings La Grotte de Gargas http://www.grottesdegargas.fr I think the paintings have been dated around 26,000 years old. We did lunch at a place on the lakeside in Montrejeau called the GC Cafe. Interesting to say the least. Apparently this place has been mentioned in the Michelin guide so we thought we should try it out. The food was fine, we chose a set menu for lunch, the view onto the lake was very nice. The decor was absolutely bizarre. There was a beach theme going on with thatched roof umbrellas and tiki dancer dolls, sea shells and sailing memorabilia….beside some random Roman columns and whole covered hams hung to dry on the wall. It can only make you smile, trust me how bizarre! Walk by the bar area and it is neon lights, chrome and glass (??)
Le Chef at the GC Cafe in MontrejeauGC Cafe in MontrejeauOutside tables at the GC Cafe in MontrejeauView from the GC Cafe in Montrejeau
My visit was coming to a close and s much as I wanted to stay in France I had to make my way back into northern Spain to continue my travels. I would definitely return to Pau and Morlaas especially as I am so fortunate to have great friends who are also wonderful hosts!
Another challenging exercise getting from Pau back to northern Spain but all in all it worked out well. I managed to catch a bus from Pau to Biarritz on Ouibus http://www.ouibus.com/?gclid=CO_H19XujNACFY-GaQodB7gDPw (a Very cheap ticket and the bus was comfortable and only a few minutes late leaving Pau). From Biarritz I was flying back to Spain but as there are no direct flights to Oviedo where I was going next, I had to fly to Madrid then up to Oviedo with Iberia airlines. The airport in Biarritz is only a few km from the bus / train station so I figured I would just catch a taxi as I had about 1.5 hours to get to the terminal. The bus arrived in Biarritz across from the train station, dropped us off on the sidewalk and left. I looked around for a taxi stand. Nope. Nothing. I walked into the train station and thought I better ask someone as my 1.5 hour window was closing in. An agent in the station told me I must take a bus to the airport, number 8 across the street at the bus stop. Merci…I went to the bus stop and was looking at the route and did not see the airport. Hmm….I asked another person waiting for the bus and she told me, oh no, these busses do not go to the airport you must go over there – as she pointed to a stop across the street maybe 50meters away. Ok, Merci…There were a few people waiting there and they confirmed this was the correct bus to get to the airport and it took about 10 minutes to get there. No problem. One of the people waiting actually worked at the terminal and made sure I made it to my stop. Thank you to some very helpful strangers!
Au revoir, A bientôt France!
It was now back to northern Spain and the city of Oviedo…
I have had some great adventures so far on this trip and it is not done yet. I went to southern France to visit a friend for few days and ended up staying for 5 as I loved it so much and we were having so much fun.
Currently back in Spain in Santiago de compostela and today I did a private cooking class with a local chef (and translator who is the business owner) and it was wonderful!
I have a lot of stories and photos I want to share but probably will not get to posting until I get back to Canada next week.
Off to Segovia tomorrow for a few days then back to Barcelona….Hasta luego mis amigos!
One of the main reasons for returning to Spain was to take a Spanish class. When I was in southern Spain a few years ago with my friend we took a few days of beginner Spanish and I was determined I would pursue learning and becoming fluent in a second language. I can understand a fair bit of French as well as read and write for the most part but when it comes to conversation and understanding what everyone else is saying. ..uh not so much. I manage to pick up a few words here and there from the different countries I have worked and travelled but it is just bits and pieces.
I had good intentions with Spanish and my knowledge of French definitely helps but I guess I am simply not as adept as some people who can pick up another language after accidentally hitting the wrong number on the satellite guide airing a foreign commercial for laundry detergent and presto! fluent in Mandarin or German…I always say I admire those types but I really loathe them. Ok I’m just very jealous. I digress…my intentions were and are still good regarding my desire to learn Spanish and I am actually quite surprised with myself over the past few days with what I have learned and actually retained. I was at the Sants train station and even asked for train tickets from two different cities at different times and the agent understood me and started responding like I was a local….then I have to stop him of course and I wonder if they are impressed that foreigners make an effort to learn some of the language or are simply annoyed. I got the tickets and all worked out for me and I gave him a little wink as I left hopefully forgiven but no doubt forgotten as ticket number 379 was waiting in line behind me with who knows what travel crisis.
Dragon sculpture near Barcelona Sants train stationDragon sculpture near Barcelona Sants train stationBeside Barcelona Sants train station
I am staying with a host family for the week whilst attending Spanish classess. I chose this option to force myself to socialize. All my travels and worldly stuff??well I’m a dangerous hermit truth be told. I tend to forget we are meant to be social beings…enough of that for now. The other reason was to obviously practice Spanish and it has definitely been worthwhile in that aspect. And of course you know there has to be food in there somewhere. Reflecting on the last trip to southern Spain we also took a few cooking courses so I wanted to help cook whilst staying with my host family. As it turns out the lady actually needed someone to help for a few days and was very glad that I was coming to stay.
What I hope to learn are how different people from different regions of the same country go about preparing the same dish and specific regional dishes. Last night I made tortilla espanole which is a classic fried dish of onion, potato, egg, olive oil and salt. Easy and basic enough but whoa they each have their way of cutting those potatoes!!
Tortilla EspañolTortilla EspañolTortilla Español
A number of other family members happened to stop by for dinner and there was nothing left which is usually a good sign; I was pleased. Bon Appétit!
I am in a small class of 6 beginner students studying Spanish, all of us from different countries and all except two of us are staying for a few weeks up to one year. The other students are from France, Italy, China, Holland and Russia and the instructor is from Argentina. I have been to everyone’s country except the instructor. I am also the oldest in our class and I was actually a bit nervous thinking that might be the case and I would be surrounded by teenagers fluent in Spanish in a couple days. Not even close. We are all beginners and all learning the same stuff. It would likely be different in a few months but I feel very grateful to be in my group and most important is we have fun! We laugh a lot and simply enjoy ourselves. The classes are all taught in Spanish as well. You walk in and leave your other language outside the door (ok 99% of the time…).
Behind the Spanish school in Barcelona
Water fountain along la Rambla Barcelona
Yesterday I joined a group of other students on a walking tour of the old Roman section of the city led by one of the Spanish instructors. I met a few more people and was able to explore parts of Barcelona I probably would not have done otherwise. I must say though, gotta hand it to those Romans…I have been to a lot of cities in Europe and the Middle East and there is a little bit of Roman in almost every one of them. Yup…endeavor to persevere…worked quite well for quite awhile!
Roman BarcelonaRoman Barcelona. Check out the window…
Roman Barcelona
I usually take photos of doors and also manhole covers. Odd yes. Interesting, very.
Port cities always fascinate me (in addition to the city that makes Port). Athens, Istanbul, Magadan, Gulf of Aqaba, Dubai, Muscat, Kuwait city, New Orleans, Houston, San Diego, Los Angeles, Seattle, Vancouver, Anchorage, Prince Rupert, Mobile, Skagway, to name a few I have visited in addition to many others I cannot recall at the moment I have also been to, and they all have a fascinating and mysterious ambience about them. I am sure it has a lot to do with various writers and history and television shows that have embellished Port cities both romanticizing and demonizing them. Regardless I still find them fascinating.
Barcelona has a few thousand years of history under various rule including Roman, Muslim and Christian. The Catalan artist Antonio Gaudi hails from Barca and of course FC Barcelona for all you footie fans. Much more that I could not do the city proper justice with my meagre writing.
I digress…at the end of La Rambla is the Mediterranean Sea and Port de Barcelona. I wandered around today under partyly cloudy skies albeit +24c.
Marina in BarcelonaPort de BarcelonaPort de Barcelona
Columbus statue to the colon de espaneColumbus statue to the colon de espane
There were these great floating buoy boys…that happened to be actual floating art! I found out they are called Miraestels by Robert Llimos. I love them!
Floating art ‘Miraestels’ by Robert Llimos in Barcelona PortFloating art ‘Miraestels’ by Robert Llimos in Barcelona Port
Walking on a wide wooden bridge over the causeway to an entirely separate market and shopping area including a nice little Ferrari for hire (For you HW)?.
Ferrari for rent
Also along La Rambla was a very large section of the walkway that was ‘sand art’
Sand art along la Rambla
I had to return to la Boqueria sant de josep once more and make my way through some of the aisles I had not been yesterday. I did get a glimpse of the fresh Sepia like I had at the tapas bar, nice and fat ready to be cooked and eaten! Yumm!
There was one vendor of wild fowl, nice fat birds freshly caught.
Sant de Josep la BoqueriaSant de Josep la BoqueriaSant de Josep la Boqueria
The smells of a market always tweak the senses and for me imbibe memories of certain things. They are all amazing in my opinion and a lot of work every day for the people selling their wares for locals and tourists. Each market I have been to brings back memories but one of my favourite is the old bazaar spice market in Istanbul (not the textile market as is commonly known as the grand bazaar although also a great market). The huge wooden barrels of fresh spices and tea are simply a wonder to smell and see.
la Boqueria sant de Josep is full of Iberian ham and meats, fish and seafood I don’t know names for and fresh fruits and vegetables that are mouthwatering. If ever in Barcelona you must visit this market!
This weekend is also a fiesta des Rosales which is for Our Lady of the Rosary.
Hasta luego amigos!
Our Lady of the Rosary festivalOur Lady of the Rosary festival
