I was working in Northern England last year in the Scarborough area (also a beautiful spot) and had time for a quick day trip to the ancient city of York. Founded in 71 AD by the Romans, York has a plethora of history presenting itself in multitudes of architecture at every turn.
From Scarborough it is easy to hop on the train in the morning, spend the day wandering around the city, enjoy a meal and a pint and catch the late afternoon train back to Scarborough.
Very close to the train station is the National Railway Museum – a must see for anyone remotely interested in the history of rail.
Next wander into the heart of the city past York Minstrel Cathedral and if lucky enough to be there when the bells are ringing it is absolutely breathtaking!
Wander further into the centre along the narrow cobbled streets and if a cat lover, the Cat Gallery is a quirky little stop and if you have time there is a self-guided cat trail taking you into various sections of the city including the Shambles where the goal is to find cat statues that have been placed in odd and curious places such as on the sides of buildings.
Over the years I have done a lot of hiking. From numerous day trips in the mountains near Calgary whilst in College and University; geology field school for weeks; working for the Geological Survey of Canada in the high Arctic areas of Ellesmere Island, Axel Heiberg for months at a time to living in the Arctic in Yellowknife and working logistics all over the north, so yes….I can say I have a little bit of experience in hiking and all things related.
Over the years as my career developed into more managerial type positions I spent less time in the field and instead of being in the field for months (as in the high Arctic or drilling camps) I had to plan these hiking excursions outside of work. I did many multi-day trips in the back country with friends which were absolutely stunning – both in terms of the scenery and in terms of how challenging they can be both physically and mentally. I really believe unless a person has carried a pack of ~50 pounds up and down thousands of feet for many hours per day, setting up and tearing down a camp in the rain / wind / snow; trying to get the stove working to have something hot to eat or drink – they cannot truly comprehend how difficult and frustrating it can be!! On the other hand the reward of having accomplished such tasks is also one of the greatest rewards. At the end of a trip when we make it to the final point exhausted, battered and bruised we can still muster the energy for an exuberant yell that We Did It!!!
Well I wanted to do another multi-day backpacking trip in my 50th birthday year and consulted my ‘sister’ and best friend and uber hiking buddy to begin planning in the spring for a trip in late summer. The initial group was 5 which finally ended up as two…she and I. That’s ok we are the toughest of the bunch right? Maybe forgetting also a few years older since the last hike, and since it has been more of a gap in years for myself since the last trip, well one does tend to forget these things. Regardless, we mapped it out, booked flights to meet in Calgary, purchased supplies, dug out old gear and were on our way.
The first morning started with rain as we packed up to drive to the trail head. We looked at each other with a little bit of apprehension both knowing the unpleasant feeling of hiking with a full pack in the rain risking trips and falls over slippery rocks and slimy vegetation. Miraculously the weather improved by the time we made it to the trail head and albeit for the prevailing smoke from the forest fires further west, the conditions were optimal: cool temperatures, no precipitation and no bugs!
This area of Banff / Kootenay area is quite popular with many trails allowing for numerous day hikes. We passed many groups out for a ‘stroll’ with a light pack of 5 or 10 pounds or no pack at all, only a bottle of water and some people without even that necessity. The (lack of) intelligence of some people never ceases to amaze me. Even on a day trip on a mountain trail something could happen and having a few extra items just in case is always warranted, but that is only my humble opinion.
We made the first camp in good time and after tradition of a few nips of single malt, set up the tent and got organized for dinner. Camps in the back country are always organized in basic sections – sleeping, eating, ablutions…the sleeping and eating sections are usually spread out so the bear poles or lockers are furthest away from your tent. Usually irrelevant for me as no matter how exhausted I am at night I manage to convince myself that every sound I hear is a grizzly who wants a piece of me…only me…not the people in the next tent or closer to the cooking area but of course only me! Hmmm….maybe that is a bit self centered…why would the bears not want the people in the next tent?
A big issue at this camp was the lack of water nearby. The small stream that used to run through the camp had been dry for at least two years but there was no sign indicating such nor any information to this online when planning the trip. We actually had to walk approximately 750m to the closest water source past the warden’s cabin. In the big picture of hiking over 60 km it sounds like nothing but if you are exhausted, it is late and it is getting dark and possibly raining, it would make it a very difficult and stressful event to get water to cook, clean and hydrate…a point I must raise with Parks Canada.
We woke to a very chilly morning with frost everywhere and frozen water droplets stuck to the tent, leaves and grass from the rain over night. It made for a spectacular start to the hike as we passed through a valley meadow which had a mellow glow in the sun rise due to the haze of smoke still present in the air. Onward we hiked…up, up and continuously up to the trail above Lake Marvel then it was fairly level for about 5 km until we hit the base of the switchbacks taking us up to Wonder Pass….I know why they call it Wonder Pass as it is a Wonder you make it up the switchbacks!! When we finally made it to the top it was a stunning view of the Towers to the left and another valley to the right. Across the Pass and the start of our descent into the next valley and lake where we would camp for the night. In all my hiking experience one thing usually remains constant – the last mile or kilometer seems to take as long as all of the distance hiked to that point. It is ridiculous. I think it is a cruel punishment from the powers that be to carry 50 pounds on your back and trudge up and down mountain ranges in all sorts of weather and think you are smart. There might be something to that.
The smoke had actually cleared somewhat and we could see the matterhorn that is Mount Assiniboine looming high above in the distance. It does make you think it was a good idea to carry all that weight up the mountain because the feeling of experiencing those moments is truly precious and all the aches and pains seem to float away. But only for a moment. We did go through quite a bit of Ibuprofen I must admit. A lot more than my previous (younger) hiking trips. Again we vowed this would be the last one – it was just too difficult! Magog Lake camp is fairly large with many tent pads and bear poles as well as lockers for food storage and outhouses that are maintained by the trail crew which is a very welcome asset 🙂
The next day we backtracked most of the same trail through Wonder Pass, descending the switchbacks (smarter than your average bear the second time around) and over Marvel Lake into the Marvel Lake campground. Had it not been for my hiking partner knowing one of the trail signs had incorrect (and suspicious hand written) directions, we may have been diverted directly to the lake whereupon we would have likely found the trail ending into nothingness…the second issue with Parks on this hike as apparently this sign with the handwritten marks has not been changed in two years minimum…I will add it to my email of concerns.
We pitched on the best spot in the camp beside the rushing stream in an absolutely beautiful area. We got settled and most of the way through dinner when it started to sprinkle. No worries we had our tent set up and what a great tent it is! It poured rain most of the night and not a single drop entered. It can be miserable hiking in the rain but it is absolutely devastating being in a tent that leaks.
Our final day was hiking out back to the trailhead. At the time of booking the two main campsites we had to backtrack due to closures in the northern area of the Park from the forest fires of the previous year. Apparently these sections opened up during the summer but as we already had our plans made we decided to stay on track. All in all it worked out as we spent each night in a different camp and enjoyed the back country from a different view as we trekked across the terrain. No major injuries other than aches and pains and everything that had been ‘lost’ along the way i.e. bear banger pen, gloves, park permits and glasses, had been miraculously found. Breath taking scenery, a grueling challenge for the body and soul and the best company one could ever hope for. Stay tuned for what is planned for next year.
When living in southern Germany in 2006 we made a few trips to Strasbourg which was a short drive from Karlsruhe. The first trip was on New Years Day and I recall the amazing Christmas market in the old town near the Cathedral. Surrounded by beautiful buildings of stunning architecture, people playing music in the streets, vendors selling their wares of clothing, leather goods, pottery, woodworks, jewellery and food. The smell of spicy sausages being cooked over an open fire must be savoured along with as many cups of hot mulled wine you can handle! I can still picture the colourful decorations and lights twinkling in the streets and smell the food and taste the wine; so wonderful!!
Strasbourg Cathedral and Christmas Market
Strasbourg Cathedral and Christmas Market
On this same trip we made the short journey over to Heidelberg during the day to walk around the castle. What a lovely city is Heidelberg, so picturesque with the river Neckar flowing through it, surrounded by the beautiful buildings so prevalent throughout Europe.
Heidelberg
Heidelberg
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle
If you are ever in the area, it is definitely worth taking some time to wander through the city…
In 2006 I was able to visit Italy for the first time. Rome, Florence, Pisa, Siena and Venice. I was travelling with a friend who also was experiencing his first trip to Italy, and whilst in Florence we made a day trip to Pisa and Siena. Travelling in most European countries is fairly easy; just go to the train station and pick a place and get a ticket. That is how we came to travel to both Siena and Pisa on a day trip from Florence. Back in 2006 the train on this particular line was very old and very slow. That was fine as the countryside was absolutely spectacular.
The train station is not centrally located in Siena and we had to take a short bus ride from the station into the city. Very easy and well worth the trip.
Seeing the leaning tower of Pisa up close was another check off the list. It makes you dizzy when you get up close and just look up although it is not tall at only 57 meters, it is very much leaning!
I think I most loved the Piazza del Campo, the central plaza with its sloped drainage to central locations with the most elaborately designed grates covering the drainage holes. Back in 2006 there was extensive restoration work at the Torre del Mangia (see the facade cover in the photo) but looking at recent photos the work is complete (at least from the pics of the front of the cathedral I have seen).
Siena Piazza del Campo
Torre del Mangia – ongoing restoration work in 2006
Siena
Siena – this reminds me of a pic I took in Heidelberg Germany..when I get around to posting that trip I will include that pic
Florence or Firenze as I prefer to call it, is probably my favourite place I have visited in Italy (so far). I was there in 2006 on a short visit and would have loved to have stayed much longer.
The Ponte Vecchio is the oldest bridge in Florence and is rumoured to have been in existence in Roman times. It still has shops and apartments built on the bridge that are in use today. It is also the only bridge across the Arno river that escaped destruction during WWII.
When I think of Florence I think of DaVinci and Michelangelo as they used to ‘hang out’ in the city. Fascinating to walk around the small streets and piazzas gazing at the architecture thinking of them doing the same hundreds of years ago. With only a short visit it was difficult to choose what to see as there are so many galleries and also so many tourists but waiting in the queue to see the Uffizi and the Academia Galleries was worth it. Our visit was in April so the big tourist boom of the season was just beginning; a few weeks later and I am sure the wait would have been much longer.
The Leonardo DaVinci Museum was also fabulous http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/Leonardo-museum.html I think most of the magic comes from the ambience of Florence itself. To walk the streets where the great masters would meet for a drink, philosophize about life and discuss their latest ‘projects’ is simply a very cool feeling to experience.
There was a great outdoor market we would wander through each day I think it was close to the Florence Cathedral or Duomo. I remember the fine quality of leather goods and fairly reasonable prices and with some bartering, even more affordable. I still use a leather purse and jacket I purchased and they do not look much different than when I purchased them over 10 years ago.
I have been fortunate to have visited Vienna on a number of occasions. All of them a day or two when I would have loved to have stayed for many more. It is such a beautiful city and probably one of the most beautiful city centres I have visited in Europe.
The last time I spent a few days visiting I also attended an opera and a ballet at the famous Vienna Opera House https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vienna_State_Opera Oh how utterly spectacular to only be inside this building filled with history and stories of days gone by. I saw the Barber of Seville Opera and then the piece de resistance for the ballet – Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. I actually had a seat in one of the private balcony suites by the orchestra for the ballet. And I have to admit I cried during the performance because it was so unbelievably moving to see such a beautiful work of art so close I could almost touch the dancers.
Vienna Opera House in early evening
Inside the Vienna Opera House
Vienna Opera House from the balcony seat taken before the ballet
Inside the Vienna Opera House
Inside the Vienna Opera House
Inside the Vienna Opera House
Inside the Vienna Opera House
Across from the Vienna Opera House
Sachertorte – one must indulge if in Vienna; and other delicacies of chocolate and special liqueurs abound, try as many as you can!
Sachertorte!
As per my usual pattern I try to pick a place to stay close to the central core where things are easy to walk to and explore the area. I like to look for places that advertise their food…or a small, unique boutique property. I have had a lot of success thus far in my years of travelling and my lasts few stays in Vienna were no different. My last stay was at a small boutique property close to the central plaza and St. Stephens Cathedral, the Hollman Beletage http://www.hollmann-beletage.at/en a very very cool place. All the rooms are a different design with various open concepts it really is unique.
I had the best breakfast at this place that I have ever had anywhere. Period. And I have stayed at a lot of 5 star and upscale properties. This breakfast was great. Lots of it to choose from, chef cooking to order hot dishes plus everything else you can imagine including fresh fruits, cheeses, preserves, breads, yogurts, muesli, meats…I could go on and on. The presentation is what I loved and I would go back to stay in a heartbeat if only to have that breakfast again! After having a great meal like this to start the day there is really no need to eat anything for many hours.
The start of the breakfast at Hollman Beletage
A few minutes walk is the main plaza and St. Stephens Cathedral https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Stephen%27s_Cathedral,_Vienna I did not take the time to tour inside this cathedral on my visits but I am sure it is spectacular given the track record of European cathedral construction and architecture. Wandering around the exterior of the building displayed numerous examples of that superior gothic architecture that is so easily distinguishable.
St. Stephens Cathedral
St. Stephens Cathedral
St. Stephens Cathedral
St. Stephens Cathedral
St. Stephens Cathedral
St. Stephens Cathedral
St. Stephens Cathedral
The entire old city area is full of cafes and shops and beautiful buildings to browse. Vienna is just a very beautiful city and if you ever get the chance to visit even for a brief time you will not regret it.
Segovia is located a little north of Madrid in the area of Castile and Leon. I was able to spend a few days in Segovia following my time in Santiago de Compostela. It was about a 5 hour train ride from Santiago to Segovia and the route is very scenic passing through the countryside.
Parts of Segovia were designated a UNESCO World Heritage City https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segovia in 1985 and are worth a visit. I was staying at a beautiful property in the old city which was a complex of buildings of a former convent. The Eurostars Convento Capuchinos was a few minutes from the Plaza Mayor and Cathedral, Alcazar and the old city walls. The views I was greeted to from my very spacious room were stunning. http://www.eurostarsconventocapuchinos.com/EN/hotel.html
Old City Wall near the hotel
Old City Wall
View from my room
Front of the hotel in the evening
View from my room
View from the old city wall near the hotel
One day I wandered into one of the shops mid way between the Cathedral and the Alcazar to browse upon some locally made jewellery. I ended up having a very nice conversation with the shopkeeper who recommended some walking trails that were more scenic and used by the locals as well as a nice little restaurant called San Marcos in the valley below the Alcazar that was very popular with the local Segovians. http://www.sanmarcosrestaurante.com
San Marcos Prawns
View from the Alcazar looking to the valley where San Marco restaurant is
Bridge crossing the river below the Alcazar and on the way to San Marco restaurant
I easily found the walking trails on the outside of the old city walls going through the valley. The view from the bottom of the valley looking up at the walls and the Alcazar are just as amazing if not more so, than from above.
View to the Alcazar from the valley
Walking path in the valley below the walls
Walking path
On the walking path below the old city walls
Walking beside one of the streets by the old city wall
Following the path along the river and crossing a few bridges I came upon the University and then continued onwards to the Roman Aqueducts. Massive structures perfectly preserved in the middle of the city; fabulous!
Path coming up to the University
Part of the University buildings
Roman Aqueducts
Roman Aqueducts
Roman Aqueducts
Roman Aqueducts
The Plaza Mayor was about 5 minutes walk through the narrow winding streets from the hotel. By luck I went early to the plaza on a Thursday morning and found the local market buzzing with activity. Apparently it is only held on Thursday’s and it is where Segovians go to get their local produce. I found some fresh fruit to snack on as well as a few pastries (of course 🙂 ) The vendor selling olives had the longest line up and as I approached I could see why – the selection of fresh olives was amazing.
It has 22 side chapels enclosing a massive cloister. I must say every Cathedral I saw in northern Spain seemed to outdo the previous one which is hard to believe.
Segovia Cathedral side chapel
Side chapel
Side chapel
Segovia Cathedral
Segovia Cathedral
Pipe organ in the Segovia Cathedral
Segovia Cathedral
Segovia Cathedral
Ornate ceiling work
Inside the Cathedral
Side chapel
Ornate ceiling detail
Pillar
Ornate ceiling detail
Pipe organ in the background
View toward the chamber where the pipe organ is in the centre of the Cathedral
The structure has held various purposes throughout history as is visible from the decor inside the castle. There is ornate detailing of the walls and doorways and stained glass throughout. I also opted to do the extra tour walking up to the top of the tower. On a beautiful sunny day the view was breathtaking at 360 degrees.
View from the tower looking towards the Cathedral
View from the tower to the valley and San Marco restaurant
Alcazar
Tower of the Alcazar
Alcazar
Stained glass
Ornate ceiling
Detail inside the Alcazar
Detail inside the Alcazar
Ornate ceiling
Detail inside the Alcazar
View from the Tower
Walking up the spiral stairway to the tower
Inside the armoury
Inside the armoury of the Alcazar
Looking down towards the gardens of the Alcazar
On the tower
Window going up the spiral stairway to the tower
Armoury of the Alcazar
The area near the Roman Aqueducts I found to be the busiest with tourists and people as well as traffic which can drive beside the ruins to get to other areas of the city (my taxi had to drive this street to get to my hotel which was in the old city close to the Plaza mayor). I enjoyed the Plaza Mayor more as it was not as busy, and moreso when walking on the quiet side streets away from the Plaza centre. A few minutes from the streets you can find quite walkways with benches to sit and rest and ponder your next adventure.
Following a few days in Oviedo I then travelled to Santiago de Compostela https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_de_Compostela further west in the northern part of Galicia, Spain. This is a city commonly associated with the Camino de Santiago or The Way of Saint James https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_de_Santiago People will travel for weeks or months from hundreds or thousands of kilometres by foot or bike or organized tour, to the final destination of the Cathedral of Santiago, where it is rumoured the bones of the apostle Saint James are buried.
I was not travelling on a pilgrimage and had only decided whilst in Barcelona that I would visit Santiago. I was staying at a property that was an old convent and had been completely renovated. The property is currently a Marriott Autograph Collection hotel http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/scqak-ac-palacio-del-carmen-autograph-collection/ I am a member of the Marriott hotels group (I think I have a membership in most of the major hotel chains due to a lot of travelling and most are easy and free to join) and upon arrival I was upgraded to a suite. Very nice with two windows opening with a view towards the Cathedral.
View from the hotel
Suite at the AC Palacio del Carmen
Suite at the AC Palacio del Carmen
Suite at the AC Palacio del Carmen
Suite at the AC Palacio del Carmen
I always get a map from the hotel with a quick explanation of where we are and what is nearby. Then my little map gets folded and refolded about a hundred times, but I always bring it with me. In Santiago it came in handy because I actually did wander off on the wrong street when going back to my hotel one day and ended up in a very weird little park with bizarre creepy trees like I was in Lord of The Rings somewhere. Granted – most of the places I stay in these old cities are in the central area and it is usually not that large of an area to wander around and there is a major landmark like a Cathedral you can see from most points, but if it is getting dark it is not as easy…so just bring the map.
I made it to the old city area and main plaza – Praza do Obradoiro. This plaza is square and is surrounded by the Pazo de Raxoi, now the city hall; the Pazo de Raxoi (Raxoi’s Palace), the town hall, and on the right from the cathedral steps is a hostel called the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, founded in 1492 by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella of Castille and Ferdinand II of Aragon, as a pilgrims’ hospice. There were people sitting everywhere in the plaza, with backpacks, walking sticks, in groups, alone, taking photos in front of the Cathedral and beside the monument in the ground dedicated to the travellers.
The side of the Police offices walking towards the plaza
The monument to the pilgrims in the plaza centre
Police Office near the Cathedral Plaza
Beside the police office
The Plaza area by the hostel
The Plaza
The front of the Cathedral
The front main entrance of the Cathedral currently undergoing restoration work
The Plaza
Walkway of the city hall, opposite the Cathedral
Entrance of the hostel in the Plaza beside the Cathedral
City Hall in the Plaza opposite the Cathedral
Chain links of the wall beside the hostel in the Plaza
Chain links of the wall beside the hostel in the Plaza
The side entrance of the Cathedral currently being used
The row of backpacks along the wall
Beside the side entrance of the Cathedral
Beside the side entrance of the Cathedral
Opposite the side entrance of the Cathedral
I walked around the the plaza to the entrance. A row of backpacks lined the wall. There is a security guard at the door advising no backpacks or large bags are allowed and if you have a daypack or large purse they will look inside. The Cathedral is open to the public most of the day but if you enter when there is a mass, there will be certain parts roped off. The first time I visited was during a service so was not able to walk down the main aisle looking towards the main altar (I went again later in the day and saw it – wow it is a massive altar blazing with gold everywhere!) I was able to walk around the other areas and view the side chapels and walk up to the statue of Saint James behind the altar, and “Embrace the Apostle” for a few seconds while the mass was going on (I bet there were about 10 priests in the service it was massive). Following this I was able to descend into the crypt where the saint’s relics are kept in a silver casket. All in all a very interesting experience.
Looking towards the main altar inside the Cathedral de Santiago
Looking towards the main altar inside the Cathedral de Santiago
Inside the Cathedral de Santiago
Inside the Cathedral de Santiago
Mason marks on columns inside the Cathedral de Santiago
Pipe organ inside the Cathedral de Santiago
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
The crypt where Saint James bones are buried
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela looking towards the side of the main altar
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela looking towards the side of the main altar
Inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
I spent most of the day wandering around the old city complex. It was again a beautiful day of sunshine and mid 20 degrees and although there were quite a few people it was definitely not the high tourist season which made walking around a pleasant experience rather than a struggle to get through the small streets and sidewalks.
Street nearing the Cathedral and Old City
One of the monasteries in the Old City
Walking in the Old City beside one of the Monasteries
In the Old City
In the Old City
Covers, including the Bomberos “Fire Department”
Santiago manhole cover
Cool bar sign in the old city
Street in the old city
Manhole cover of Galicia
Manhole cover
Part of the old city complex; one of the monasteries
Monument to pope John Paull II
One of the streets with a very old decrepit property among some very nice apartments
I passed a boutique pet shop on my route and there was a large photo of an elegant cat pictured like Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s; I thought of my uber Diva Madama Miloe who could pose for the shot in her Tiffany blue Swarovski collar 🙂
Pet Boutique
The Diva
One trip wandering back to my hotel I was sure the little street I turned onto was the correct one but as I kept going it did not seem right. I entered into a little park, nobody was in it anywhere and there were huge knarled trees, twisted and wrenched like they were in pain. It was a very weird park….so I figured I would get a few photos and then take out my trusty map and find the errors of my ‘ways.’ Which I did and was soon on the right path.
The creepy tree park
Creepy Tree Park
The creepy tree park
I liked this city and to those planning a trip to northern Spain I recommend a stop of at least 1-2 days to tour the old city area.
One of the highlights of Santiago de Compostela was taking a private cooking class. I did something similar with my friend whilst in southern Spain a few years ago in Granada and it was a great experience. The course in Granada was actually over 2 days and we did not make a trip to the market before each class (everything was already at the studio) but it was still great to cook some local dishes with a local chef.
Finding a course to take on this trip to northern Spain proved a little challenging as I was not with a group and most places wanted a minimum of two people in order to book a class. I was very fortunate to find The Spanish Touch http://www.thespanishtouch.com who were more than willing to accommodate my request. I want to thank Elna at The Spanish Touch who was very helpful providing information and answering all my questions as I think I changed my plans and dates a few times! I was put in touch with a local company in Santiago de Compostela called Hello Cooking http://www.hellocooking.es and it was absolutely fantastic I had so much fun and thoroughly enjoyed every moment! Maria and Elvira are wonderful and I would recommend to anyone wanting to take a day course to do some local Galician cooking to contact Maria – you will love the experience.
Maria met me at my hotel and we walked to the old town market close to the cathedral. This is the place where the local people shop for their daily fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and seafood, nuts, seeds and dried foods as well as flowers and various hand made crafts.
The Market
Fresh fish at the market
Fresh shellfish at the market
Fresh produce at the market
The Market
Variety of cheese at the market
Maria and I picked up the fresh hake fish we needed as well as some zamburinas on the half shell. Unfortunately the large scallops Maria was hoping to get were not available at any of the vendors but the zamburinas looked like they would be just as tasty!
The cooking studio was only a few minutes from the market and Elvira was already inside. A wonderful lady with many years experience as a professional chef, I was looking forward to cooking with both Elvira and Maria.
Our menu included making an appetizer of the zamburinas cooked the Galician way, on the half shell with a tomato-serrano ham sauce topped with a little fresh bread crumbs and baked until crispy and bubbly. Oh they were SO good!!
Zamburinas before going into the oven
Our menu in process of preparation
The main course was the hake fish dish with a white wine tomato sauce, topped with some white asparagus and parsley. A very nice combination of flavours, so easy to make and so tasty!
The hake cooking in the sauce (with the cakes on the counter)
The hake with some lovely crispy potato slices fried in olive oil
My wonderful hosts Maria and Elvira
Que aproveche!!
Time for dessert!
Dessert was a traditional Santiago cake made with almond flour. The almond flour provides more flavour than conventional wheat flour and the cake is much more moist as well. I was able to bring a couple small cakes away with me and they provided me with a nice treat along with cafe con leche on my train trip to Segovia the following day.
Muchas gracias Elna, Maria and Elvira and Que aproveche!
Oviedo is a city of about 225,000 people in the province of Asturias in northern Spain. Oviedo was settled around the 8th century and soon after a rich architectural tradition began with the construction of palaces, churches, cathedrals, monastery’s and the like.
I flew from Biarritz, France to the Asturias airport (via Madrid) about 50km from Oviedo. I found the taxi to be a bit pricey at about 60 Euro but did not have many options. Weather was sunny and warm about +23c, the drive was scenic with rolling hills, valleys, lots of lush green vegetation, dotted with towns along the route.
I stayed at a small, stylish boutique hotel The Princesa Munia in the heart of the city which was an ideal location. The room was small but I was in an old building and in the city centre so I was not expecting a huge spacious room. The hotel is literally a few minutes walk from the Oviedo Cathedral which is known as the Cathedral of San Salvador, and plaza area which contains numerous heritage buildings, monastery’s, convents, churches, along with small cafe’s, tapas bars and sidrerias (the place to drink cider…I will get to this later) and of course lots of shopping.
Casa Conde in Plaza de la Escandalera
Horse sculptures in Plaza de la Escandalera
La Maternidad by Botero in Plaza de la Escandalera
Sculpture of the Traveller in Plaza Porlier de Oviedo
I have seen a lot of Cathedrals in many countries and although they are all impressive considering their construction, the Oviedo Cathedral ranks high on my list for classic gothic architecture in addition there also remain earlier romanesque relics in various locations of the structure. The building is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Probably the most famous relic held inside the Cathedral is the Sudarium of Oviedo. “Sudarium” is a shroud and this particular piece is supposed to be the shroud that wiped Jesus after the crucifixion; there are no images on the cloth but stains are visible that have been analyzed to be blood https://www.shroud.com/guscin.htm
Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador, altar
Cathedral of San Salvador, altar
Cathedral of San Salvador, Pipe organ
The Sudarium of Oviedo (shroud used to wipe Jesus after the crucifixion)
The Sudarium of Oviedo (shroud used to wipe Jesus after the crucifixion)
Cathedral of San Salvador
Looking to the cloister, Cathedral of San Salvador
Looking out one of the windows of the Cathedral San Salvador
Looking to the cloister, Cathedral of San Salvador
Looking to the cloister, Cathedral of San Salvador
Looking to the cloister, Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador
Cathedral of San Salvador
Festival with musicians playing traditional music of Asturia
As I walked around the cluster of buildings near the cathedral I saw a number of weddings both in the afternoon and the evening. Two ceremonies I passed were going on inside the old cathedrals in one of the side chapels so although the doors were closed, there was still enough of an opening to peek through and see what was going on. Others I passed as the wedding party was coming out of the churches walking down the stairs or into a plaza filled with tourists and members of the wedding party (I guess I could have been a wedding crasher but decided against it).
One of the weddings held in the Cathedral
I had read a number of things online about the Cathedral and cluster of buildings and came across a number of comments about the Monastery of San Pelayo http://catedraldeoviedo.com/ which is a cloistered convent for the Order of Benedictine nuns. Apparently these nuns have made CD’s of gregorian chants and have amazing voices. They have vespers (evening prayer) each night which is open to the public and they sing vespers. So I decided to check it out. As Oviedo is along the camino trail enrolee to Santiago de Compostela I expected a horde of pilgrims but there were only about 10 of us and no-one looked like a hiking pilgrim. We sat in the front chapel and a few minutes before 7pm a sister came into the chapel and asked us to come to the back area behind the chapel where there were two levels of wooden seats lining each side of the room, and the sisters sitting towards the back on each side, and whom I assume was Mother Superior and another senior nun, sitting at the back facing the whole room. We sat on each side towards the front. It reminded me a little of an old British courtroom, not sure how else to describe it. I could not take any photos inside.
Monastery of San Pelayo
Monastery of San Pelayo
They began to sing and I must say it was pretty amazing. I am guessing, but I would say the average age of the 20 or so nuns was about 60 years old but the sound of their voices had me guessing again.
It lasted about 30 minutes then I went on my way, passing another wedding group just coming out of a church, musicians playing outside in the plaza, a few tourists wandering around and the locals starting to come out for coffee and maybe think about eating dinner which is usually not until 9pm or later. The Rialto pastry shop was open http://www.confiteriarialto.com/en and very busy and I could not resist getting something sweet. I think it was a Carbayone and it was worth it. It was worth it just to gaze at the window display which was full of pastries and sugary things made into ants of various pastel colours carrying pastries – very unique.
Display at the Rialto pastry shop – look closely they are sugary ants carrying sweet delights climbing up vines
Display at the Rialto pastry shop – look closely they are sugary ants carrying sweet delights climbing up vines
Street close to my hotel – check out this little wee tiny delivery van parked beside the scooter!!
As I continued my evening stroll I came upon a sidreria which is a cider bar. Yes, from the convent straight to the bar!
Asturian cider and especially in Oviedo, is well known for these establishments and the manner in which they pour it. When one goes into a sidreria one does not order a cider and sit and sip it. Oh no. There is a whole ritual involved.
The Sidreria
The Sidra
I ventured inside. Still early so there were not too many people. Ordered a cider…..a bottle with about a liter of cider is placed in front of me. Oh no, I say….poco poco I was only planning on a little bit. Nope. So he pours me a glass – you get maybe a few hundred ml per pour and you have to drink it all. Immediately. I guess it’s part of the aeration involved in the pour. No problem, I’m a small town girl I can down it in one drink. Nice and cold, tasty and only a few percent alcohol so I would be able to make it back to my hotel! But the best part of the whole cider experience is the pour. They lift the bottle in one hand and stretch their arm high above their head, and in the other hand is the glass, held with the arm stretched below their waist. And they pour…into the glass….from about 4 feet (depending how tall your bartender is 🙂 ). It’s great just to watch them!
The next morning was back to the airport and then onwards to Santiago de Compostela as I continued my journey westward in the north.
Over the years I have done a lot of hiking. From numerous day trips in the mountains near Calgary whilst in College and University; geology field school for weeks; working for the Geological Survey of Canada in the high Arctic areas of Ellesmere Island, Axel Heiberg for months at a time to living in the Arctic in Yellowknife and working logistics all over the north, so yes….I can say I have a little bit of experience in hiking and all things related.
